I don’t even remember when I first saw the Cookie Jacket by Waffle Patterns. It was a couple years ago…I saved it, visited its listing on Yuki’s site…I thought of it longingly.
Finally, last year, I bought the pattern. I had it printed through PDF Plotting…and still, it languished…unmade.
Fast forward, and a small sewing group I’m in decided to have a challenge; sew a fabric you own in a pattern from your stash. Sounds pretty straightforward, but wait! there’s more! We drew names and someone ELSE picked my fabric from 3 stash* options I offered. Once the fabric was chosen, I offered 3 patterns from which she could choose.
This wasn’t your average challenge…it was a COMPETITION! with PRIZES! Sure, I don’t know what the prizes are or if I care, but…THIS IS SOMETHING SOMEONE IS GOING TO WIN. My type-A-goals-with-type-Z-energy personality kicked in…predictably, I missed out on the bonus points for finishing my homework early in January, but I finished in February, so I still get half a letter grade. (I’m really milking this metaphor.) There were also bonus points for Hong Kong finish and sewing an unsewn pattern, and you’d better believe I didn’t leave those on the table.
Cutting this jacket took me, no joke, 3 evenings. I knew I wanted to match the plaid as much as possible. I prioritized plaid matching across the zipper and basically just stripe matched everywhere else. I knew I could make the plaid “flow” across the zipper…but it BENT. MY. BRAIN. Then I failed to give the zipper an adequate amount of breathing room, so my painstaking cutting wound up at 90% of the perfection goal.**
I bound the seams with hug snug rayon seam binding. If I’d known wawak sold it (under a different name) I could have saved myself several dollars, but I’m telling you, so YOU can save several dollars. (PS, if you don’t know about wawak.com…well, NOW YOU DO. YOU’RE WELCOME.) I didn’t do the most perfect or beautiful job, but I’m still pretty pleased. I found tutorials that recommended a 2-step process for sewing this on, but I noped on out of there. I ironed my hug snug in half and bound my pattern pieces (mostly) before construction to give myself more sewing room. This worked fairly well. There were some seams that needed to be bound after construction, but I’d use this method again in future. (LOLOLOL, if I’m not getting points for it, realistically, I’m not going to care enough to do this again.)
This was my first time doing zipper welt pockets (Is that even what these are?) VERY often, I look at a new technique and feel no concern that I *can’t* do it…that type Z energy just pipes up and goes, “do we really WANT to do that?” It is very persuasive, that type Z energy voice. I’d found this blog post by Irene at Froo & Boo, and her beautiful jacket guts helped persuade me that the Hong Kong finish wouldn’t be a waste of time. She also led me to add an inch to the zipper pocket openings, which I’m glad I did! (I have small hands, but I think 5″ is too small even for my petite little fists.)
I used this glorious tencel rib for the bands, and NORMALLY I am alllll about hip bands being 1:1 ratio with the bottom hem. I don’t like negative ease at my hips, but! This time, with this fabric, I wished it had required a bit of stretching. It was NOT happy about having to lay still and think of England whilst being sewn. The buffalo plaid canvas was a treasure found at Cali Fabrics (but it is currently out of stock). They often have surprise designer deadstock and other magical finds for unbelievable prices.
oh! one last note: the pattern as written has a knit turtle-y-neck situation going on…I’m so glad I stumbled upon the free hood add-on. While I was sewing, I realized that I was supposed to line the hood. I pawed through my stash and didn’t find anything that spoke to me and grudgingly accepted that the jacket wanted a fuzzy white lining…and that meant I had to set it aside until I’d visited Auntie Jo-Jo. Luckily, Ole Jo had just what I needed, and I came home with half a yard of this white sherpa fleece. It is more perfect than I expected it would be!
I don’t think I’ll make this jacket again, which has absolutely zero to do with the quality of the pattern and instructions and everything to do with thinking I want a bit more shaping at my waist. I did see in reading other blog posts that the sleeves are a bit restrictive for movement, so if I were making it again, I’d probably try to figure out how to do one size smaller for armhole to maximize freedom of movement while making my measured size for the rest of it. (I made zero mods to this jacket.)
First jacket make…(and one of my 2019 make nine goals) CHECK! I think I need to make another zip-up, zippered pocket thing from my list next!
*I cheated a TEEEEENY bit bc I offered a fabric that wasn’t ACTUALLY in my stash, but was on its way to my stash.
**I know, I know. No one would notice this if I didn’t point it out. Rest assured; I am still very proud of this effort and am gonna wear it a lot.